Nearly Finished! Jalie 2804 and BurdaMag 03-2009-105

Sewing for myself! I finished the pink top (except for the hem - more on that later) on Saturday and the flowered skirt yesterday afternoon. The weather was sunny and 16C (about 61F) so I wore this paired with my new (thrifted) denim jacket.

This is the third time I've made the top. The first was a wadder. I used fabric without enough stretch and didn't alter the pattern pieces. My major mistake here was that I was so annoyed with the fit that I didn't even bother to really look at it to see what needed to be changed (other than adding a bit more to the crossover pieces to accommodate my bust). The second time, I was deconstructing another Jalie top into this top.

I haven't hemmed the top because I am tempted to take this it apart and rework it. Here's why: It's too long. Everywhere. I think I must be petite. There is too much fabric between my shoulders and my bust. The spacing between the empire seam and the ruching is too long - the ruching sits low on my stomach unless I scrunch it under my bust. I have made some adjustments to the my paper patterns to avoid these issues in the future.

Also the neckline is too plunging. Definitely not toddler friendly. I tried the top on at least three times to check the crossover placement. Somehow, when it is all sewn together it pulls open. I'm not really certain how to fix this except to overlap the pieces more. While Jalie does offer instructions for a modesty panel, I am not thrilled by the construction. That empire seam at its thinnest is three layers of fabric. At its thickest (where the neckbands attach) it is six layers. That's a lot of fabric.

Around here it's rarely warm enough to prohibit wearing a cami/singlet underneath - if there is only one layer of fabric across the stomach.

What to do, what to do?

  • I can take it apart. (Did I mention that I twin needle topstitched the empire seam to hold it flat?) Take off the ruched layer. Increase the overlap of the crossover top. Remove some of the extra fabric at the top edge of the lower bodice. Sew it all back together, making the hem even. This would hopefully solve all of the problems except the extra fabric from shoulder to bust.
  • I could cut it apart. Including cutting across the empire line in the back. Trim a bit more off the top edge of the lower bodice. Increase the overlap of the crossover pieces. Sew it back together. This would solve the same problems as the previous method, only it would be quicker as I would avoid picking out stitching.

Hmmmm. Do any of you have advice on this?

I will have to consider this as I am having my teeth cleaned today.

The skirt, by the way, is somewhat unremarkable comparatively. I have made it once before, but this time solved my fit problems (again, I needed to petite the length at the waist and the length of the pleat stitching - I also took the skirt in a bit at every pleat).


gwensews said…
Honestly, I thought that top was supposed to be rushed in the midrif. That is such a popular look that it didn't dawn on me that it was too long! Have you checked PR for reviews of that Jalie top? Your skirt is awesome!
I think it looks nice as is (if you don't hate wearing a cami under), but if you do take it apart--cut it. You're making everything smaller anyway!
The top is ruched, but if you look at the picture closely, you will see that the ruching starts about three inches below the seam. This is where it is supposed to start, but it doesn't look right on me.

I wore the top again today, this time without a cami, so I pinned the overlap with a safety pin. I was still really bothered by the excess length.

I think I will cut it. I can't come up with a good reason not to!
sewknot said…
I think it looks great! You are brave to be tackling such tasks. I look forward to seeing some of your fashions when you come visit in a few weeks!

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