Skirt BurdaMag 03-2009-104
I made this skirt using a rough wool remnant that after washing shrunk, fluffed, and felted into an almost blanket-like material. It does look a bit like I am wearing a blanket - particularly in the way I wore it today, with a long shirt over the yoke, but it is warm for a knee-length skirt. It's not terribly frigid here, but wearing "shorter" skirts any time from September to April is pretty much unheard of for me.
I recently posted that wool is not a mom-of-small-children friendly fabric, but I decided to go ahead and use this wool because I think I paid all of $4 for the piece and I'm just trying out this skirt style. It finally dawned on me that I could use another fabric for the yoke (so as not to have any itchy wool near my waist), so I chose the polyester brocade. It's stiffer and slicker, which are good properties in this case. This is also my first foray into a proper lining (though I am certain I didn't do it properly), and I chose a bemberg rayon ($10/metre for lining fabric! Yikes!)
Because the pattern called for stretch fabric, I decided to cut my skirt fabric on the bias. I wanted it to have as much chance as possible to drape well. I cut the yoke on the straight grain, however. I used a fusible woven interfacing on the brocade yoke to increase the fabric's stiffness, and even purchased a lightweight boning, but I don't think the yoke needs it.
I had quite a laugh when I pin fitted the yoke pieces together and marked the new stitching line. I know I am anything but a curvy person, but this is hilarious:
The blue chalk lines are my new sewing lines based on a pin fitting. You can compare them to the pattern's stitching lines on the top two pieces. Waist? What waist? Hahahahaha!
Of course, as it turned out, I could probably take in the yoke by another inch. I don't quite know how I am going to do this yet.
I did make a few changes to the pattern. First off, I was concerned that I wasn't going to be able to walk in the skirt without a slit or vent, so I scoured through my Burdas and found a skirt with a vent in the front and traced that off onto the back. This eliminated my chance to cut the back on the fold, but it gave me the chance to move the zipper from the side to the back. And since everyone has been talking about it lately, I decided to try a handpicked zipper. Here it is:
Not bad for a first go! It's not invisible, but I've never been great at hand stitching. I'll get better, but for now I am pleased that the stitching is straight and not wonky like I am certain it would have been had I tried to sew it with my machine.
My lining turned out alright also. The pattern does not include instructions for a lining, so I did the best that I could. I chose to cut the lining on the bias since I wasn't certain that I would be able to fit into the skirt otherwise. I lined the yoke (on the straight grain), which I think was a mistake. All day the skirt kept sliding around and my camisole kept riding up. The lining around my zipper looks very nice, but I have to do a little bit more work on the lining near the walking slit as it keeps peeking out.
Should I make this skirt again (and I might since it is a fairly functional skirt - wore it all day today - to the playground, too) I will remember to make a new pocket lining piece so the fashion fabric isn't doubled up on my thighs. I will also line the yoke with a quilting cotton and take the yoke in some. I have to get over my fear of making the waist too tight.